Seoul episode two

Dinner at Silver Note had been planned without taking into account that we were on an eight and a half hour trip that day. Hence we returned at 18:30 and had a mad dash for a 19:30 booking. However, it wasn’t all bad: I had a ride in the lift and boy, did I need it. The hills and length of that day had finished off my knees and I was struggling a bit. I’ve also booked in another lift ride for the next day after a second long day of walking. Luxury!

So once we had showered, dressed and descended to Silver Note we were pretty much bang on time. A bit of a mad half hour or so and no time for prinks, so we prinked at the restaurant, shunning the pink Prosecco and treating ourselves with a glass of the real stuff. The menu concept in this restaurant is bizarre - obviously cooked up (see what I did there?) by a mad chef with too much creative licence. It was divided into six musical “movements” - rather pretentious twaddle frankly, but actually quite fun.

The concept is aided in its mystique by having the lighting so low that you have to peer at the tiny print. In the already dark restaurant they then turned the lighting down lower as we tried to make sense of the menu. I resorted to taking a low light photo of each page so that I could make my choices. It all worked out in the end and we made three choices each - all beautiful, tiny dishes served on exquisite tableware and accompanied by, you guessed it, rosé wine.

At the same time we had the bizarre experience of conversing with the grandkids, one of whom was in Newcastle Upon Tyne and the other in Delhi. Each had their own drama and we did our best to help, while in South Korea.

It’s an early start for our second visit to Seoul and we amble down to a deserted arrivals hall after negotiating the longest gangway any ship has had. It seemed as if we were walking to Seoul. We potter through the customs and immigration and wander to our bus, which we discover is already nearly full. There is also a second bus for this trip so the passengers on Silver Nova are evidently eager to visit the sights of downtown Seoul. As we have already some experience of the city from yesterday’s marathon visit, we may already recognise much of this city of 10 million people.

Irene Kim is our local guide along with Barry our future cruise manager. Kim is one of the most common family names in Korea.

We are to visit the number one Palace in Seoul, built in 1395 and absolutely enormous. First though is the one hour and forty minute drive through increasingly heavy traffic.

Korea in its modern form evolved after the Second World War when Japan invaded the country and oppressed the population. After Hiroshima and Nagasaki, the Japanese surrender led to Korea’s independence and government by the Kim family. Many were dissatisfied with their communist ideals and the Korean War led to partition of the country into the North and South we know today. Whereas the North has a poor economy and is a pariah state, the South has used its major natural resource - people - to build a fast-growing technology-based economy that is the envy of much of the world. This is evidenced by the proliferation of massive skyscrapers throughout the main population centres, accommodating the many millions of workers who keep the wheels of industry turning. The infrastructure of the country also maximises the resources available, with massive bridges linking the islands that form part of the peninsula and long tunnels burrowing through the mountains that form 70% of the landscape.

Traffic is very heavy but wherever we go we appear to be whisked along by our bus. Perhaps they know Gabrielle and Nick are aboard? No, the mundane truth is that there are very efficient bus lanes that keep bulk people carriers flowing more quickly than cars. And talking of cars, Hyundai and Kia proliferate in a wide variety of styles as Koreans shop local for their motors.

The things that strike you about the country, apart from the evident wealth and technological advancement are the warmth and friendliness of the people, the cleanliness of the environment - no graffiti or litter - and the quality of goods on sale. Koreans are fiercely proud of their country and are diligent in protecting it from invaders hence there is military service that is mandatory for all men for eighteen months and a highly trained army, navy and air force all of whom are ready to fight.

And so to the Palace visit. We are just in time for the changing of the guard. Now we know why Irene, our guide, was in such a hurry to get us here.

https://video.wixstatic.com/video/6a24d1_1629575291d94b0198e60ececb81e583/1080p/mp4/file.mp4

It’s a colourful and noisy spectacle with drums, conches and strange wailing trumpets. We are delighted to have experienced it and would not have missed it. Then we are led into the palace itself through the three gates. This is the number one palace in Seoul and it is huge with massive grounds and fascinating buildings all of which have survived as originals - a rarity.

All around us are people in traditional costume, celebrating their heritage but also the fact that they get in free of charge. We are photographed with a gaggle of girls who are more than happy to be used as models for our group. We all make a sign with our finger and thumb that represents love and affection in the K-pop culture. And incidentally, K-pop is everywhere around you in Seoul, particularly the K-pop Demon Hunters movie. And not forgetting Gangnam Style!

Everywhere we go within the grounds there are gigantic steps: a challenge for your author. Going up is not too bad, but coming down is hard work. However the climb is worth it as we look into the throne room or the king’s bedroom which are stripped back but beautifully decorated. Every detail has symbolism and the ubiquitous dragon, guards each building from evil spirits.

On the roof you can see animals parading along the pitch, the total number of which symbolises the importance of the building. In this case, it was the party house. Well, of course. Something that Gabrielle and Nick can relate to.

A sad fact is that much of what we saw relating to the history and traditions of the Korean culture has been lost in the modern world. People no longer celebrate occasions in the same traditional way and so there is a feeling that the culture has simply become fun to emulate rather than an embedded part of everyday life.

I joined the ranks of the vegetarians so that I didn’t have the same lunch as yesterday. We visited Tower 8 which was a 24 floor skyscraper with a restaurant in its basement. And very nice it was too, washed down once again with a bottle of Cass beer - delicious!

After lunch we visited a shopping area which was notable for quirky shops and very cheap discount stores. We didn’t buy but wandered, wondering at the properties of snail cosmetics. One thing to be noticed is that no one smokes. It’s illegal in public and even in your own home or apartment. You certainly cannot smoke as you wander down the street. How refreshing.

And so for the final time we head back to the ship in our coach. It’s another hour and a half drive from the centre of Seoul to the ship in Incheon, mostly due to the very heavy traffic. We settle back, knowing that tomorrow is a sea day so no early get up and time to recharge our batteries before Busan.

Follow the Silver Nova with VesselFinder