The Temple of the Tooth in Kandy

The inner sanctum of the Temple of the Tooth

Not such an early start today but all of us are trying not to think about tomorrow when we need to have breakfast at 06:30 before our train journey. Breakfast today was a leisurely affair, characterised by coffee, loads of fruit, no dhal (shock, horror! Gabrielle has decided that perhaps eating dhal twice a day has unexpected or indeed expected results), and a very strange assortment of buffet essentials for me, including mortadella sausage, potato kiev, fruit cake with peel (eugh, yells Gabrielle), hard boiled egg (eugh yells Becky) and beef! It’s allowed. Very nice it was too. Although, why was there no one there to peel my eggs for me? Call this a luxury hotel?

Breakfast buffet

We’d both had a reasonable night’s sleep, probably as a result of exhaustion and a very large G&T, and so we’re feeling better than yesterday. My cold appears to have left my nose and descended to my chest so there’s been much harking and barking today.

Thankfully we have reasonably good Internet and so were able to update photos in our previous posts, but today we went to the Temple of the Tooth - Sri Lanka's most important Buddhist religious monument - housing the Buddha’s tooth that was retrieved from his cremation in 543 BC. Whether or not it’s really the Buddha’s tooth or even a human tooth is a matter of some debate. However it is of huge cultural significance and has acted as a focus for people’s pilgrimage since 1592. And boy, did they pilgrimage. In their thousands. Atulah told us that this was a good time to visit because, in May, when the main pilgrimage takes place, the queue to enter the ground can be over a kilometre long.

The parking was already full when we arrived so Atulah dropped us off and came back to meet us after disposing of the bus. Like everything else here, it’s crazy trying to park anywhere other than in the hotels. Vehicles are abandoned william nilliam (thanks Eloise or Imogen!) wherever there’s a piece of rough ground.

So once he rejoined us we made our way into the entry for the shrine. Everyone must remove their shoes after the entrance and then walk on ancient flagstones to the shrine where the tooth is held. Hordes of people make the pilgrimage every day, carrying flowers and offerings to leave at the shrine. We slowly climbed the stairs in a queue to get in, many of the people with us carrying offerings of flowers and special gifts that represent their devotion to their Buddhist religion. Everywhere there is gold leaf and beautiful artwork, all reflecting the care that people take to respect the place and maintain its beauty. It’s quite an emotional experience to see the devotion that people have to the Buddha and to the principles enshrined in his doctrine.

One cannot see the actual tooth when you emerge into the sanctum where it is held - only the beautiful shrine itself. There are videos playing, showing ceremonies taking place around the shrine and music fills the air from the gata bera and the yak bera drums, the Horanawa flute and the tiny cymbals, all creating a joyful atmosphere. The fluttering prayer flags also contribute to the colour of ceremonies here, and indeed in the streets.

In the Octagon, a separate room, there are cases of golden relics - many of which appear to be solid gold - Buddhas, elephants and books, lots of jewels as well, all relating to the history of Buddha and his eventual achievement of the elevated state of nirvana. Around the wall are simple paintings illustrating the Buddha’s life from his birth as Siddhartha Gautama, through his enlightenment (nirvana) and then his achievement of the elevated state of grace (parinirvana) which released him from the round of reincarnation upon his death.

Also here is told the history of how colonial Britain helped with the retrieval and preservation of the tooth. Whether one believes or not, the devotion of people and the joy it engenders are both important factors in the spiritual lives of all Buddhists. The daily prayers and devotions help people focus on the guidance of their religion and the importance of improvement. Atulah told us of the aspirations that people have and for women, it is to be reincarnated as a man. This was quite shocking to us but it is a reflection of their culture. He also told us how girls, on reaching puberty are shut away and kept in a dark room for a period of time up to two weeks before coming out for a coming of age party. It’s an important transition and counts as a type of wedding. There are three in any girl’s life: birth, attainment of adulthood and wedding to a man. The concept of living together unmarried does not exist here in anyone who is any sense devout.

This was a very beautiful visit and we all felt uplifted by the experience. It’s humbling to see how everyone, Atulah included, make their devotions in front of the icons of their religion. I guess this is no different from Christian, Moslem or any other religion, but there is something joyous and deeply calming about Buddhism which is very uplifting.

And so we left the temple and were transported back to the hotel where we are relaxing and recovering from what has been a very busy few days with a great deal of travel. Tomorrow it’s train and tea plantation. So, be ready for Gabrielle’s next post.

Just one more thing, to make you jealous, here’s today’s weather. Beautiful! Snow, did you say? Oh dear … just off to the poolside for a cold beer.